Chen Jie: Two problems currently faced by the Pu’er tea industry
We used to basically use the year method to divide the value of Pu'er tea. This classification is based on the experience summary of "the older it gets, the more fragrant it becomes." Therefore, people arranged "Hao-grade tea", "Indian-grade tea", "Mesozoic tea", "Mountain tea", "Ancient tree tea" and "Modern tea" according to their age, forming a pyramid value structure. Obviously, the top of the pyramid is "Hao Class Tea" because it is the furthest away from us in terms of time span. We also often refer to these "Hong Kong-grade tea" and "Indian-grade tea" as "old tea".

As we all know, in the past decade or so, "old tea" has been the most beautiful scenery in the market. Its continuous rise, including the soaring price, is because people believe that its intrinsic value is unique. This intrinsic value is related to the post-aging of Pu'er tea. Therefore, the earliest batch of Pu'er tea experts described it as "the older it gets, the more fragrant it becomes."
The term "the more it ages, the more fragrant it becomes" was first used to describe aged liquor and aged rice wine. The more aged it is, the concept of time, and the more fragrant it is, the concept of quality. It was introduced into Pu'er tea in the 1990s and became one of the most famous concepts of Pu'er tea. Many people believe that "the older it gets, the more fragrant it becomes" is the lifeline of Pu'er tea. Without this, the value of Pu'er tea will be greatly reduced. Therefore, the introduction of this concept has also brought enthusiasm and pursuit of "old tea" to the market. But it also brings a new problem: "The older it gets, the more fragrant it becomes" is an empirical description of Pu'er tea that reaches higher quality after fermentation. It is a traditional saying. If we use modern scientific examinations, many questions will put us in an embarrassing situation. What is the standard for old tea? Is it the concept of time? Or the concept of quality? Or both? If you have to say that fifty-year-old Pu'er tea is better than twenty-year-old Pu'er tea? So who can tell us the main material differences between them? What are the physical and chemical indicators of these main substances? What are their options and recognition criteria? How to position their functions? How to explain their significance to our human body? How to prove that it becomes more fragrant with age?

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